Bay to Breakers 12km, San Francisco

There was a run.

Yes, it was my holidays, but after we booked the Alcatraz tickets, I got a little email to warn me of possible travel disruptions on that day due to the the Bay to Breakers 12km run across San Francisco and the little Paula Radcliffe shaped angel on my shoulder whispered "you could, y'know...". A few minutes and a couple of click later and I was in. Down for a 7am start... Izzie is gonna LURVE me!

So the Bay to Breakers is a little 12km jolly from one side of San Francisco to the other... here's a little picture that I took with my watch when I ran (my love for my GPS watch will never fade).

I had to get up super-early, but lucky for me I was all jet-lagged and on African time, so it didn't really feel early at all. I sauntered down to the train station at 6am, feeling just a bit groggy and silly wearing my running gear on public transport so early. I needn't have worried. Waiting for the train was a Santa Clause, three ninja turtles, two power rangers and some middle-aged women in florescent leg warmers. I was impressed, I had heard that lots of people wear costumes for this race, but I hadn't reckoned on America's addiction to fancy dress. I would usually made the most of being outside the Maghreb and worn a sleeveless top, but sadly I had intense sunburn from the bike-ride the day before and so I had to keep covered up.

This is my excited-here-we-go, yeah-I'm-wearing-make-up, where-are-the-bathrooms face. There is a crazy tradition involving throwing around stale tortilla at the start line. I got involved, who am I to comment on tradition?

And then all of a sudden, we were off. It was brilliant. There were naked people, drunk people, live bands, loads of fancy dress, DJs, photographers, Students cheers, hanging out of windows. It was really brilliant. But I know what you really want to know, right? How were those hills? the legendary hills? H.A.R.D. They were so steep, people put their hands up at the top as if they were on a rollercoaster. My watch drew a picture of them too. Ready to see?

That's the elevation right there. What a burner. Ouchy. Thankfully there was lots of support through the tough moments, so they didn't feel so bad. But really, those hills are not for the faint-hearted.

I managed a smile, especially for you, at the finish time. I look pretty hot and rotten, but we got some coconut water, so that was pretty exciting. At this point you should know that I didn't shower for another 12 hours... mmm!

(Fake) Tales of San Francisco

Dés' pour le retard!!

(Yup, that's how my French is shaping up lately)

So I took a little holiday (and by "little" I mean "of a lifetime") and when I got back the catching up with work and friends in Tunis and working through the post-holiday-blues took up all of my waking hours. Then Team Tunis got really busy moving houses, having babies and throwing dinner parties every night, and then my work have decided to move us all to another country which has got all of us excited... so, over a week since I got back, I'm just updating you now.

I went to SAN FRANCISCO Y'ALL!!

So the obsession with San Francisco began with my childhood bedtime stories. My parents hadn't travelled a great deal before I was born, so post-procreation, sensing overwhelming responsibility and pressure, they left me with an aunt and travelled the width of America by road, lest they should spent long evenings in the future babysitting their huge brood in a 2 bedroomed house with nothing to talk about. It worked like a charm, and as children we heard of their adventures, particular when my mother won a free ticket to Disneyland, thousands of times.

My mother always said that San Francisco was her favourite city, though, she found it hard to articulate why. Something quintessentially European, liberal, sunny and happy. Then my father lent me Walter Mosley's Cinnamon Kiss, which is based in and around San Francisco, which really turned the heat up. Oh, and I watched The Princess Diaries once. 

I was not disappointed. I keep thinking that if I keep building up these places, one will eventually underwhelm me. Not today people. It was fantastic. From the breathtaking landmarks, which you have seen and million times before, and often wondered if you would see with your bare eyes, to everyday, enchanting exchanges between strangers that you will remember always.

The city was beautiful. The weather was perfect. The people were enchanting. The bike ride across the Golden Gate Bridge was exhausting. The food was wholesome. Izzie (my lovely sister) was hilarious. Alcatraz was haunting. The street art was inspiring. The mood was exhilarating.

(Knitting in cells in Alcatraz - yep, they knew)

...And I put my feet in the Pacific Ocean.

Happiness.

Labib, the Great Recycling Fox

I have a confession. It's a big one.

For all my great love of humanity and equality and freedom and happiness... I have no enthusiasm for animal rights or the environment.

Okay, that's probably a little overstated, but two facts remain:

1. I have visited the Tunis Zoo twice now, even though I know that that enclosures are terrible and the conditions that the animals are subjected to are appalling (Grizzly Bears in 40°C heat with no shade, anyone?). The first time was a mistake, the second time my friends didn't believe how bad it was and so I had to show them. The un-reassuringly-cheap entry price should have been a giveaway: 800 milimes (1000 milimes make a Tunisian Dinar) per adult = 32p (GBP) = 49c (USD).
2. I never recycle. Never. I am the worst. Since I left the UK, I forgot all about recycling. Even when I'm home, I have no idea what goes in what bin. It all started when I found out that the scrap metal drive in the UK during World War II (when women donated their best pots and pans to be turned into tanks to fight the enemy) was actually a public relations exercise, and most of the collection was just un-usable and dumped. It was just done to make people feel like they were helping in the war effort.

In the same way, my heart doesn't believe in recycling. Is is really making a difference? Is it really worth the effort. My friend Penny loves recycling and told me all about it, for 21km, on Sunday. Now I'm going to try to be a pro. 

Tunisia doesn't care much about recycling, the streets are pretty messy... but she does have a mascot. A very friendly long-eared fox called Labib. I run past a statue of him on my training runs. I took a picture for you the other day - sorry it's a bit blurry, I was running really fast!!

 

He's also on the plastic water bottles. There are stations all over the place to recycle plastic water bottles, now that Penny's been pointing them out to me, I seem to see them everywhere... who knew??!!

So this is it, I'm turning over a new leaf and Labib and I going to save Tunisia with our great recycling prowess - and I will believe that I am making a difference and not destroying the planet.

Long-eared foxes are a bit of an emblem for Tunisia. I saw one in the desert last month and I wanted to hold it, but my mum pointed out that it was cruel that it was all tied up and that it would be supporting animal cruelty if I held it. Oh. Please refer to point 1 above.

But you MUST admit - he really was a cutie!

So... New leaf... recycling warrior... yep yep yep...

Right after I get back from my holiday on the other side of the planet - heading to the airport now...

Carbon schmarbon!

TTFN!

Les Foulées du Lac, Semi-Marathon

Oopsie! Two running posts back to back - I didn't mean to do that, I promise life is about much more than running at the moment. Work has been insanely busy so I've been a bit shoddy with my posts, but I promise to try harder this week - then we shall have a big hiatus.

Anyway, start clapping, boys and girls because yesterday I ran my second half-marathon! and two halves make a whole, right? I blooming wish!

It was the Berges du Lac Half Marathon, proudly sponsored by Activia (I warned you about the Tunisians and their yogurts, right?) and it was hot hot hot! I put on suncream but I still got burnt on the backs of my legs - I now look like I'm wearing permanent red socks - sexy!!

So Berges du Lac is a suburb of Tunis, built up around an artificial lake, with two distinct parts, Lac I and Lac II. Lac I was developed in the 1990's using Saudi funds which tied the area into specific "dry-laws" meaning that no alcohol can be bought or sold there (except within the embassies). They have a great assortment of cafes, restaurants, and ice-rink, two bowling alleys, wedding venues, gyms and lots of high end shops. Also, in Lac I is the greatest cheesecake shop in the entire world (in my personal and most humble opinion). The apartments are plush and generic and really you could be anywhere in the world.
Lac II is still effectively a building site, some of my friends and colleagues live there as the institution that I work for has an office there and you can get Lac I quality apartments a bit cheaper. And sadly it's also dry.

The race was around both Lacs I and II. Starting in Lac I by one of the big bowling places (where I tore up the lanes only last week. All the strikes. I'm actually lying of course. I'm actually terrible). Our running team was depleted this week as my lovely friend Lucy tore a muscle in her leg about a month ago, and although it has now healed and she ran with us last week, she hasn't done any long distance for a while and so decided to sit this one out. Erika, our other running angel has been having problems with her feet and also didn't feel ready, so it was just myself and Tunisia's fastest 10km sprinter, Penny, who represented.

Having spent most of Saturday driving around town, trying to find the registration place, getting lost, nearly getting hit by a tram, calling the organisers 10 minutes before the office was due to close and being told that we could just pick up our race numbers on the day - we rolled up to the race with an hour to spare and hearts full of confidence. But alas, the race number disbursement was terrible - being non-Tunisian it was relatively quick to zoom our eyes down the thousands and lists and find our names... but really... in this day and age? We got our numbers with 15 minutes to spare. Just enough time to take a quick selfie of us and the Lac:

 

...Persuade a local cafe to let us use their loo, drop the bags off at the car, eat a couple of fried egg sweeties (for protein...) and head back to the start line. We were casually walking along, I was getting the old snazzy-pants watch to pick up the GPS satellites and we were discussing race tactics, like not going too fast at the beginning and dropping banana skins for our competitors, when all of a sudden some people came up the road running towards us. We carried on casually walking along for a minute before realising - Holy Moly! It's started! and we missed the start!!

We dove into the cheering crowd and weaved in and out for about 800m before wiggling our way to the back of the runners, the final few who were just crossing the start line ahead of the ambulance. I started my watch and we were off!

We spent the first 5km overtaking and laughing about the start - how had we possibly missed it? and also taking it in turns to stretch and catch up as the other one kept pace. This was not ideal and my legs were really sore today, probably as a result of this. Then we ran... and ran and ran and ran...

This half marathon was so much easier than the last one, yes it was hotter and I'm a little... ahem... heavier than last time (I can keep smiling and saying it's all muscle as much as I like, but I think a little bit of it may be made of moelleux au chocolat...), but really I am fitter and it didn't require such a mental battle of wills.

Berges du Lac is BORING - there were none of the beautiful views of the Medeterranian Ocean like the La Marsa Half Marathon only lots of building sites. Here's the route, thank you clever watch:

As you can see there were lots of loop the loops, which made it fun for cheering each other on and seeing the other competitors. One man ran with a huge Tunisia flag. It was really heavy. I know this because he let me hold it afterwards. He beat me. Some women ran in hijabs - they were brilliant. A 5km fun-run was going on simultaneously - some women did that in full burkas - I don't have enough words of admiration to cover that. Intense.

It was pretty windy, so the worst part was going past the building sites and all the dust and sand going in your eyes, and the fuel stops... hello? No fuel! nothing! Just water! 21.1km and just water! Seriously - we were superhuman!

So I finished at 2 hours 4 minutes, by my watch, but I think the official time might be a bit longer... given that we were late and all. Otherwise, very happy!

At the finish line we were given a medal, a hat (does anyone want an Activia hat? it's green and yogurty! I have a massive head, hats never fit me), more halwa, some warm peach-flavoured Activia yogurts (yum!), a lucozade and some water.

But at Lucy's house we were given pork sausages and wine, and that's what made it all worth it.

Ready for the Money Shot?

Ghar el Melh 10km

Whoa there! Guess what I got up to yesterday? Only went and ran my socks off, in the most gorgeous venue that Tunisia has to offer.

If Bizerte is a sleepy fishing town... then poor Ghar el Melh is in a long term coma. The half-marathon and 10km races that are organised in the town by a local entrepreneur and encourage participants from overseas (mainly via a French package trip) and from the Tunisian running community seem to be the main event of the year. The town turned out in force to support us, cheer us on, or just gaze in complete wonder.

 
The 10km route was all along the coast, around a little port and then back again. It was quite flat and really beautiful. On the way we passed plenty of tiny seaside shacks where local fisherman were all too happy to cook up their daily catch for you to feast on in their sandy gardens. The smell of sea salt, and the strong coastal wind took me right home.

Look at this snazzy map that my watch made! Clever, clever watch!

 
So how did we do? well, my running gang and I came in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th for the ladies race... yep, not many ladies entered, but I still think that we can be very proud - especially as there were lots of little girls watching and waving from their porches, so maybe we inspired them for the future. I achieved my personal goal of completeing on the road in less than an hour - something I have never managed in training, I made it in 58:40, very happy considering the wind, how hot it was and the fact that there was no water provided en route!

On the way home, we got stuck in some bad traffic, and we were in my friend Lucy's car, so I cracked out her Tunisia travel guide and (to everyone's delight) we all learnt lots about Ghar el Melh and its history with the UK. It turns out that Ghar el Melh used to be a pirate base and was destroyed in Sir Francis Drake in 1654. Ghar el Melh means "cave of salt"... explains the smell then. In the village there are three Ottoman forts... yep, Dad, THREE! Whack it on the list for next time!

There were no medals, as this was a real 'local' race - no frills whatsoever. But last week I did finally buy the Berber necklace that I promised myself during the last half-marathon in La Marsa. I wore it with pride last night.

Until next time - oh crikey... it's next week! eek!

What the Halwa...?

Oh, you think I talk about food a lot? Well don't get me wrong, I'm not a foodie, I'm just straight up greedy.

Firstly respect to me, because I just walked around the supermarket taking pictures and everyone thought I was a bit mental, but I think you'll agree, it's worth it.

So the diet here is pretty Mediterranean, maybe French Mediterranean meets Africa. And like France - people know about their yogurts. I knew I had settled in here, and I really felt like Tunisia was home, when I went home home and was in Safeways with my Mum and proclaimed loudly in the chilled section "This is all you've got?!? In Tunisia, we have aisles and aisles of yogurts!!" and it's true, it the 'Big Carrefour' there are 5 aisles of yogurts. Five. You walk down them and there are yogurts on either side. You cannot believe he flavours; pistachio, apple and vanilla, biscuit, date, peach, fig, prune, almond and all your regulars like strawberry, chocolate, vanilla, lemon...
The yogurt department at my local supermarket is a lot smaller, but it still represents, this is the Danone section:

So Harissa, the glorious chilli and tomato paste is another Tunisian culinary delight that gets a lot of floor space in the supermarket. I actually saw some in a supermarket in the UK when I was last home, in the 'world food' section, but here Harissa gets a section all of its own, floor to ceiling:

You can buy it in tins, jars, tubes... you can even buy it in bags from the fresh counter. Just make sure you have it, it's a diet staple.

So another thing that had attracted my curiosity was a product called Halwa. I had seen the laden shelves of tubs, tins and packets and had absolutely no idea what it was. I asked everyone, but everyone didn't know either. No one served it at there house, no one gave it to me... I couldn't get to grips with what it was, and why is got so much space in the supermarket.

 

So I never bought any and I just went on wondering and wondering. Until the La Marsa half marathon, where we were given a little tin in our post-race bags. The other night I sat down and tucked-in... oh my.

Firstly, how cute is the little deer on the tin? doesn't it just whet your appetite?

So the Halwa itself was like a really soft nougat, made from sesame paste. It has a bizarre texture, it's really crumbly - not just in a melt-in-your mouth way... more like a oh-this-is-a-bit-weird way...

The other types in the supermarket come with almonds or pistachios or dried fruit - I think this would be a bit more exciting, but I still can't work out quite how it's served. The other tubs are much too big for one person at once - are you supposed to just eat it straight out of the tin or tub? Or spread it on to something? Or cut it into cubes?

Guys, for you I will continue to look into this. My work here is not yet done. The adventure continues...

Getting Fed, while they get Wed

I'm becoming a bit of a pro at Tunisian Weddings. And it's a jolly good thing too because they are a huge social focal point for most Tunisians, especially women. They are a prime husband hunting ground for young ladies who tend to spend most of their time cooped up at home, and are also a good opportunity to get dressed up in a spectacular fashion and dance to some of the craziest music you have ever heard.

My wool shop of choice is in the haberdashery zone of Tunis so I often get to walk past and admire all of the spectacular wedding dresses on display in the windows. You need sunglasses on for these bad boys, they are proper blinged to the max

 

Typically, wedding dresses are hired for the wedding and also for the engagement party. Unsuspecting guests can be a little confused at first if they are not familiar with the custom of wearing a giant meringue for the engagement party. 

My friend got engaged last year, and there's a rumour that after the official party and the fiancee had gone home, leaving her dress to be returned to the hire-shop, I put it on and danced around.  

Without photographs, it's unclear to me whether this could have possibly happened, she smiled.

But the real minefield at wedding is the food and drink. Typically no alcohol is served at functions like this and so my natural approach is to drink A LOT before you go (this is my culture, I'll thank you not to judge). With food, it's a complete game of roulette. Sometimes you will get a full, delicious buffet, sometimes just a small plate of Tunisian pastries and some wedding cake. You just never know, and the invitation doesn't help either. I've been to two similar weddings both starting at 9pm, one you got a full dinner, the other, just strawberry juice and pastries.

You can understand my extreme concerns when attending my colleagues wedding last Saturday then... and although my stomach can happily eat two dinners, to ensure social graces, I had selected a dress that really only had space for one. My colleague is Austrian so they went for the buffet option - fortunately I had not eaten, so I was ready to pack some good food away.

Do not be fooled by the leaves and salmon on my plate - that was the salad course. Tunisian buffets are all about the five courses, and if you don't handle them all, people look at you like you're crazy; pastry starters (lots of filo, egg and tuna arranged in different ways), salad (voila!), mains (cous cous, lamb, fish), pâtisserie (where you'll find me) and fruits (dates, oranges and the peaches are just coming in).

It seems that love is in the air in Tunis at the moment, as another one of my friends had a whole table of us cooing as he told the story of how he proposed to his new fiancee just last week - lots of lovely planning, pretending that there were no flights left to Lyon on Friday night so that she would have to fly the next morning and he had time to go ahead to the restaurant and get everyone organised... and they say romance is dead?

They are having an engagement party this Saturday - I wonder what dress she'll wear? 

Here is last week's happy couple, I won't name them, just in case they google themselves and get a surprise. But what a beautiful dress and happy smiles!

 

Mabrouk!!