Happy Birthday Freddie!

It's my Nephew Freddie's Birthday Today, and I wanted to use my blog to host a mosaic of his First Year.

Happy Birthday Freddie!

Graduation Party, French Class and an Introduction

I've had a very overwhelming week. Alot to do at work and then I moved house into an apartment of my VERY OWN yesterday... but first things first, I must tell you all about:

Patrick's Graduation Party

So a couple of weeks ago, I receive an invitation to Patrick's graduation party and I was delighted to accept. Patrick is a new graduate who has been with my company for a very short time. Educated at Makerere University in Kampala, and achieving a first class degree, he is one of the shining stars in our office. I convinced my managers that they should also attend (and bring along their wives too...!). I was expecting a few light nibbles, a bit of chit-chat and at most some garden dancing. We got a whole lot more.

We arrived at the house of Patrick's parent's right on time. The garden had marquees and rows and rows of plastic garden chairs. I started to worry a little. We sat down, and very little happened for an hour. People poured in and soon all of the chairs were filled. Then a choir began to sing and Patrick and his parents came out of the house to wild applause (Patrick was wearing his graduation gown). There was then a mass mass. All of the proceedings were in Luganda. When a bible was whipped out I thought "phew, at least now there will be some English...", alas no, a Luganda translation bible.

Luganda is the official language of the Buganda people, the tribe from the central region of Uganda. I keep vowing to take lessons... but today I actually rang up the Luganda school, so I'm really hoping that now it might happen. I think it would be a real asset, at least to have some understanding.

I was able to recognise the Lord's Prayer from the rhythm in which it was chanted, but I couldn't tell which book of the bible they were reading from let alone which passage.

The mass was followed by a series of speeches, all in Luganda, including and impromptu one made by my boss (in English!), which went on for several hours.

Following this was some food - it couldn't have come soon enough, because I forgot to have lunch. It was really delicious, the usual buffet style. The problem was, I had selected a seat right in front of the cake and so spent all evening looking at it and salivating... mmm. And I can confirm it did taste lovely.

French School

Now I really must tell you about French School! I'm taking classes at Alliance française de Kampala, and am trying to get my Diplôme d'études en langue française (DELF) A2 certificate this year. Hopefully, I can then achieve a level B1 next year. This is very optimistic, but will allow me to work in francophone countries such as Mali, Côte D' Ivoire, Cameroon etc... and may also allow me to fulfil some career objectives that I have in mind... So the A2 test is in June and I am currently having 5 hours of lessons per week.... Here's hoping!

Me and My Gomesi

On Saturday, I went to my first Introduction. Introductions are like the official engagement part of the marriage process. They are also known as the "traditional wedding" and afterwards you're pretty much married albeit, not legally.

The introduction in hosted by the bride's family, who recieve the groom and a group of his friends/family (notably not his parents, which I found strange) totalling (in this case) about 25. Then there's lots of drama, establishing why the groom's party have arrived (as if we didn't know). Interestingly, the groom nominates a spokesperson, so it's not clear to the audience, until almost the end, which person is actually getting married.

The paternal aunties of both the bride and groom play a huge role in the whole process. I attended as a guest of the brother-in-law of the bride and so was invited into the house to eat after the ceremony. The food was excellent. We had chicken in gravy baked in banana leaves that was so unbelievably tender, it was real melt-in-the-mouth.

The ceremony was all in Luganda again - back to my comment about Luganda lessons... need to get them organised, because too much is lost in translations!

I had a "gomesi" to wear, but in truth, it wasn't a real gomesi. It was a dress that was made to look like a gomesi. A Gomesi is usually wrapped round and round, but this had a zip and was much lighter. To be honest, it still wasn't very comfy - it was SO LONG!! But I love it dearly all the same!

Sadly, I made a very "global" error with the outfit: I wore brand new shoes! Ouch! I was in agony by the end of the day! Otherwise though - Complete success!

New Year, New Start, New Contract, New Home

So, as the title suggests, it's a whole load of new starts around here. I have a new work contract which will see me out here in East Africa for the next two years. It's all very exciting, but has meant a huge overhaul in my contract terms and conditions, making me now responsible for my accommodation and travel. This is good news and I relish the opportunity to have more say in where I live and more freedom to move about.

The accommodation hunt began in the latter half of last month. It was pretty tough to weigh up my requirements - somewhere very secure in a good area, close enough to the office to avoid the morning jam, but far enough away to feel like you actually "leave" work of an evening... and of course the cost. Prices seem to be very high, as there are lots of amusing developments popping up, such as the Kensington Apartments on the Kampala Northern Bypass, which are chiefly advertised by Rio Ferdinand. Nonetheless I set out on my quest and probably looked at about 10 apartments, before setting on one in an area called Naguru. I won't go on and on about about, but the best feature is a set of bunk beds. Pack your bags guys! you're all invited! 

Looking good!

Now a quick update on my Christmas knitting. I didn't go too overboard this year, just a couple of hats and a stocking for Freddie (which in the rush, I forgot to photograph! can you believe that?). But the hats turned out lovely. I particularly like the top one, which I nicknamed "the DNA hat" as the pattern look a little like a single helix.

Here's a close up of the DNA Hat. It's Knit using a Scandinavian technique called twisted stitch knitting which was REALLY SLOW. I began it on the train to Marseille and I think it must've taken about 3 weeks in total.

So I bet you'll all wondering how much wool I brought out here as part of the four-suitcase-Great-Exodus, well I took a picture for you! See below.

As you can see, it's all piled around my safe. To be honest, if I could fit it, it would be going IN the safe as my most treasured possession, but sadly the safe is a little too small!!

I've just started a shrug from some black sparkly "Twilight" wool that my Dad bought me for Christmas as a joke. The joke's on you, Dad, because I actually like this wool! I have a cardigan that I knit last year also, that is in desperate need of sewing up... and I need some buttons for it, but I'm yet to find a button shop here.

In other Kampala news, the pre-Election stuff is hotting up. Lots of good posters everywhere, which I intend to document for you. As yet, no riot police have been required... but as you can see - we are in desperate need of grammar police!

Horseback Riding in Lake Mburo

At the weekend, Alex and I took ourselves to Lake Mburo. We completely underestimated the distance suggested in the guide book ("just three and a half hours from Kampala") and set off in the late morning from Kampala. Sadly, we organised (and I use the word "organised" very loosely) ourselves a bit too late and so all of the affordable accommodation in Lake Mburo National Park had been booked up. The Park also hosts a number of high end resorts and although being actually within the park is probably the best option... $420 per night, really is not. We found somewhere in Mbarara (about 45 minutes drive away) for 25 UGX (about £8) with a clean bed, shower and satellite TV (America's Next Top Model was on!). It was good to get a taste of Mbarara as there a rumours that I will be spending a great deal of time there next year!

So we travelled down Masaka road at top speed, alot of the roadwork that were going on are largely complete now, and the road is just waiting for its Traffic Signs and Roadmarkings. Otherwise though, the quality is pretty good. We saw this nice rusty "End Corruption" sign by the equation crossing on Masaka road, that I really liked, warning Africans against the corrupt nature of the "long nosed, white faces". Haha! nice!The National Park was wonderful, plenty of zebra on show!!

Then we did something a bit different. We took a horseback safari from a place called Mihingo Lodge. It was really fantastic. The animals aren't so scared of you when you're on the back of a horse, and we were able to get really close to the Zebras and the Waterbuck. Such magnificent animals!

Look at that red skin! and I was wearing two coats of factor 30!

There was a small incident on the horse ride... We were just walking along, nothing fast, looking at some buffalo, when suddenly a little warthog came running out from under a bush and complete spooked my horse. It went completely mental and then threw me off! It all happened so fast, but I was terrified of being stamped on by the hooves! Fortunately the horse ran off, far away, so I didn't get trampled.

What does falling of a horse feel like? EXACTLY like falling off a bucking bronco, without the inflatable ground to catch you!

Then we took a boat ride and saw for baby crocodiles! can you spot them on the picture below?

St Andrew's Ball, Kampala

So today is St Andrew's Day, but on Saturday Kampala held their annual St Andrew's Ball. I was very reluctant to attend - but with some support from Alex (who I dragged along), I reluctantly agreed, and the actually had a wonderful time!

The ball was held at the Serena hotel in Kampala, a really beautiful location.

We arrived into a foyer full of kilts ("In Uganda, we call them skirts...") and were handed a strangely looking white-milky stuff with bits in... My Scottish friend told me that it was Atholl Brose, a drink made from whisky, cream and oats...mmm! it actually went down pretty easily, as did the second, and by the time we were escorted to our table, I was ready for a big night.

That's when I was confronted with another strange looking drink, waiting for me on our table... also cloudy and lumpy... I took one tiny sip and exclaimed loudly to Alex:

"Blimey, I dunno what the hell that is, but we're gonna have to neck it! It's Jank!"

It was then that a polite Scottish man informed me that it was - infact - the appetiser, a chilled  leek and potato soup. Oh dear! If only I had studied the menu first! how embarassing!!

But the night was just warming up, and the band were so brilliant leading everyone in the Scottish dancing - I must confess, I did do a little gig myself!

They brought in the Haggis to bagpipe music and it was completely delicious. Here's a picture of me enjoying it. Yes, I am that red. I am sunburnt all over. I have given up on trying to stay out of the sun... it's waaaay too hot!

Brilliant night. Lots of fun - could've done without the whisky hangover!

Happy St Andrew's Day!

Mabira Forest, Big Matooke Bottom and Thanksgiving

Oh my goodness! How does this keep happening to me? I get so behind and thought of trying to catch up and not miss out on any of the adventures that I've had fills me with dread and then the problem just gets bigger and bigger... and now a face a 5 week update! and not just any five weeks... five super-busy weeks. Okay. I will do my best to summarise the key moments, and naturally punctuate with suitable photos.

So the weekend following the last post, I went to Jinja with Alex and Stevie P, for some intensive R & R and then some even more intensive Jet Boating! We stayed at the Nile High Campsite. I can't help it... I like it there so much. It has lots of affordable accommodation and big groups of backpackers coming in on overlanders - giving it a great atmosphere, plus it's right on the banks of the Nile. So we just chilled out there on Friday night and had some beers. Strangely, even though it's only a couple of hours drive from K'la, the beer is MUCH (like 30%) cheaper because the factory is in Jinja.

On Saturday morning, we got up early and watched the rafters leave (SO glad that I wasn't with them, completely sticking to my "never again" policy) and then we booked ourselves onto a jet boat. From what I can tell, and it's not much, it's just a metal speedboat that has a MASSIVE engine (the boys seemed to want to talk about the engine for ages!), and it just tears up and down the Nile, mega fast, up and down the more shallow rapids, and can do 360 degree spins. It was SO BRILLIANT. Like all of the thrill of the rafting, without the fear of sudden death and the pure exhaustion from the paddling.

I was so sure that I wanted to do it again... until I woke up the next morning. So sore. And I don't even bruise easily:

So I was in Kampala for another week after that, and most of it was spent nursing my bruised body and saying goodbye to people. Then I left Kampala the following Friday (with a stonking hangover) for my other favourite place that begins with a "K", Kent!

I was with my family for a week. Thank you so much for having me. The highlight was probably a pretty traumatic evening (and by evening I mean 3 hours) where I took sole responsibility for my nephew Freddie. This is him earlier that evening.

Trust me, he was no where this nice to me 3 hours later. Poor little guy, Auntie Michelle has no idea even which way a nappy goes round.

From Kent, I went to France, where I was hosted by the Lovely Laura. I use the term hosted very loosely, because she's quite nomadic and we actually only slept at her house once! But she took great care of me, showed me all the sights and never made me speak French when I was afraid (unlike her cruel friends!). Marseille is a beautiful city, even in November and surprisingly warm - especially when you're hiking up MOUNTAINS!

And then I had a brief stint in Southampton, largely at the grace of Lady Mansell (thank you, Angel!), and then it was time to head back to Uganda.

I'm so sorry to everyone that I didn't get to see on this return voyage. Please don't take it personally, and I promise to hit you up at Christmas. 22nd December. I will be back.

Back in Kampala. Same city. Same apartment. Same bedroom even. Starts to feel like home more and more.

On this first weekend back, what is the top priority? Get out of the city, of course! We (Alex and I) went to Mabira forest. We went with two other people, who stayed at PLUSH accommodation. Alex and I went for 15,000/- per night. Oh yes, sometimes, you just get what you pay for!!

But, to be honest, the place was really lovely. They set up a massive campfire for us in the evening, and showed wonderful hospitality all weekend. I would stay there again!!

So we spent lots of time relaxing on the Saturday and enjoyed a beautiful 5 course meal. Then on Sunday we took a little hike in the rainforest. I had all these great vision of playful monkeys jumping down on my shoulder - not so much. The most exotic this we saw was a camouflaged slug!

But not to worry. We still trekked for over 2 hours and the humidity was killing me!

So back to K'la on Sunday night for another week at work.

Then something terrible happened. On Wednesday, I sat on my phone with my big matooke (mashed banana) enhanced bottom and broke the screen! badly. I was so disappointed. I really thought that this mobile was the one that I'd been looking for all my life. That we were destined to be together. Fortunately, Marvin "knew someone" and within 18 hours I was standing in a swelteringly hot phone shop in downtown Kampala with the tiny screws for my intricately designed phone being blown across the workman's desk by rotating fan that was being used to circulate the hot air. Super.

But the screen was fixed none-the-less and by Ugandan standards was quite expensive (just under £20) but I really couldn't be happier. It feels like a reconciliation with an old friend.

So with my phone fixed, Thursday rolled on and it was Thanksgiving. In the spirit of Thanksgiving - cultural exchange, togetherness, giving thanks and gluttony, Alex and I decided to cook Thanksgiving dinner for everyone in our office. Surprisingly they all accepted our offer, and I was terrified about running out of food. But everyone seemed thankful and full when they left, so I think we can call it a success!

Digger Dancing in Kampala!

Okay, this one will have to be seen to be believed. Yesterday, Alex (here it is Alex, this is your big mention), Steve (similarly for you, Steve) and I had gone to Shop Rite at Lugogo Mall to buy some South African chocolate called 'Top Deck'.

Most of the cars had been cleared from the carpark and BEHOLD! What should we see? The car park cleared for a magical display of art and wonder, where man and machine dance together in perfect unity. 

Incredible. Watch this video, it must be seen to be believed.